A rare broadside concerning different kinds of cloth and sundries “which are occasionally purchased for the service of the United States, by the Purveyor of Public Supplies”. Said purveyor, Tench Coxe (1755-1824) was a political economist appointed to the role by Thomas Jefferson. He has been described as the “father of American manufacturers.”
The detailed list gives an insight into the far-reaching commodity requirements, both through international trade and domestic manufacturing, stimulated by the American Army in the aftermath of the Revolutionary War. It is also replete with information pertaining to military fashion and utility.
The specified sundries include “broad-cloths” in blue, white, buff, grass green, and scarlet, each of these with a sterling cost per yard; “white swanskin for vests”, “assorted coatings”, “twilled serges for linings”, “shalloons and rattinets”, “yellow or buff nankeen”, and numerous different cloths for shirting. “Book linen”, possibly intended for the binding of books, is requested in stripes and checks, alongside “Brown Hollands”.
Some of the fabrics give hints of their origins in their names, for example “white bocking baize” was a product of Bocking in Essex, and “Ticklenburgs” were a coarse blended linen produced in Tecklenburg, Westphalia, made primarily for sale in the West Indies. Of particular interest is the inclusion of “Printed calicoes and chintzes for the Indian service”. This reflects the manner in which the US Army were provisioning their Native allies, and may suggest that there was a preference amongst Indigenous groups for the kind of patterned, colourful cloth traditionally produced in South East Asia. Native Americans are mentioned again at the end of the list with the request for “general goods suitable for the supply of the army, the Indians, &c. home manufactured and foreign.” This consideration of materials for trade with or supply to Native groups demonstrates the US Army’s deep involvement with Indian affairs in this period.
Alongside cloth there are listings of buttons, shoes, whole garments including “Cocked fan tail artillery wool hats”, blankets, rifles, gun-powder, brass kettles and tools. A quality control is included at the end: “None but handsome, useful and strong goods, at moderate prices, for cash, need be offered.”
Tench Coxe was well qualified to act as Purveyor of Public Supplies, having served as Assistant Secretary of the Treasury under Alexander Hamilton, with whom he co-authored the 1791 Report on Manufactures. He was an early proponent of American grown cotton, however was against the use of enslaved labour.
OCLC finds one copy only, at the Clements Library.
